One of our favorite ports to visit in Mexico is Progreso. We even choose our recent cruise January 6, 2020 onboard Carnival’s ship Fantasy because it was one of the ports! However, this authentic Mexican port often receives mixed reviews and a bad rap from other cruisers. Visit any cruise board or Facebook group and you’ll likely see advice to “just stay on the ship”. If you skip this port, you will be missing out on a great experience! Please don’t listen to the naysayers and give it a chance, we think you may be pleasantly surprised!

We have visited this port numerous times, both via cruise ship as well as land vacations. Each time has been a great experience. We have enjoyed both group excursions to Merida and other nearby attractions as well as spent the day in the Progreso on our own. It makes us sad that often this port is dismissed without giving it a chance, so we wanted to share our recent experience with you in hopes you’ll at least give it a try.

Some of the Caribbean’s ports have become so Americanized one wonders why a person even wants to sail there! Grossly inflated tourist prices and standard American food are offered at many chain establishments at lots of ports. This is not the case with Progreso. You still feel Mexican culture and style here. The small seaside village holds onto its heritage while welcoming thousands of cruisers each week.

Although not very Americanized, it is still very welcoming to visitors. Most people you interact with will speak some English or find a way to communicate with you. Everyone is happy to see and interact with you. The city is investing in its infrastructure to make it easier to navigate and enjoy. Tourist police presence is everywhere you look ensuring your safety.

If you are looking for a port that boasts Americanized tourist places like Hard Rock Café, Margaritaville, or a Fat Tuesdays, you will be disappointed. If you are looking for delicious, authentic Mayan-Mexican food, friendly people, and a stunning gulf view-you will love Progresso!

Whatever your interests are, Progreso has got you covered! It is situated on the Gulf of Mexico with a gorgeous, free beach. Progreso is conveniently located on the Yucatan peninsula with awesome day trips available. It’s easy to visit several Mayan ruins including the famous Chichen Itza or Dzibilchaltún as well as the historical white city of Merida during a port day in Progreso. Within miles of Progreso you can enjoy cenotes (underground water caverns), tasty Mayan-Mexican food, historic reenactments, and even flamingos!

If you’re like us once you give it a chance you will want to book an extended land visit to properly explore this part of the Yucatan peninsula. After our first cruise we returned for a land vacation as one day was not enough to begin to see the things we wanted to. We spent two weeks here for Steve’s 50^th birthday and look forward too many more extended visits as there is still so much more to explore.

On our recent Carnival Fantasy cruise, we decided to spend the day in Progreso relaxing.  We were being very budget minded this cruise and wanted to keep our port expenses low, so we choose to not book any excursions. Instead we decided to get a massage and enjoying a nice lunch on the beach. Read on to learn more about our day, we’ll share our other Progreso trips in future blog posts.

Looking for an inexpensive beach day during your cruise? Progreso is your port! Hop on the free, air-conditioned shuttle bus for a quick ride down the pier to town. According to Amusing Planet, The Progreso pier is the longest pier in the world at just over 4 miles. You will be dropped off at a mercado (public market) where you can shop. Shuttles run all day so when you are ready to return to your ship it’s easy. It is a quick couple block walk to the beach area. Along the way you’ll find plenty of restaurants, massage booths, and shopping opportunities.

The beach is not fancy, but it is clean, well-maintained, and free. Many restaurants offer tables with umbrellas for you to use when ordering from their menu. There will be independent waiters who will present menus and bring your food. Often these waiters are not employees of the restaurant and will be up charging you for running for your food and drinks as well as expecting a generous tip.  Be sure to ask if there are any delivery fees or additional charges before ordering so there are no surprises when you receive your final bill.

You can also bring your own umbrella and claim an empty space on the beach. The beach stretches quit a long way. Walk a couple extra blocks away from the pier and you will find it quieter and less populated. By walking a bit away from the heavier populated areas, you will also get away from so many street vendors and solicitors.

The beach is white sand with minimal shells. You may want to bring water shoes as sometimes the small shells can be sharp at the tide line. Snorkeling off the beach is not optimal. Check out an excursion for snorkeling.

One of our favorite things to enjoy in Progreso is a massage. Don’t waste your money on the ship with an expensive massage that ends with a high-pressure sale to buy expensive lotions. Visit Victoria and her staff at Mayan Spa just a couple blocks from your drop off point in Progreso. We chose this location as it is indoors, has air conditioning, and is clean. You can find massage places on the beach here too, but we didn’t want to deal with sweat and sand while being watched by hundreds of people. Mayan Spa avoids all of that.

We didn’t have an appointment, we just walked in and waited just a few minutes for our turn. The building is small but well laid out. Each massage table area is divided by hanging gauzy curtains to offer a somewhat private space. I do wish the fabric was a bit heavier and completely closed all the way around each area like a hospital.  As I was sitting in the waiting area, I was able to observe the first table occupant receiving their massage.

The amazing smelling oils, tranquil atmosphere, and dim lighting helped relax me. Victoria, my masseuse, worked out all the tension and tightness in my back and shoulders. The massage covered all areas from my scalp to my feet and was very thorough. She found areas I had not realized were tense and worked out the stress. It was divine!

The prices at the Mayan Spa are very reasonable. We enjoyed a one-hour full body massage for $25 US dollars each. It was worth every penny! While the prices were very low, the quality and attention to detail was not. This massage was more enjoyable then the one we had onboard a previous cruise ship for $189 each.

• Dress in comfortable, loose fitting clothing that is easy to remove. We left our underwear on and removed everything else. You will be draped with sheets or towels and each area uncovered as needed.
• Sometimes when stressed, knotted muscles are first massaged it may be uncomfortable and almost painful. If it is unbearable tell your masseuse. However, if you can, allow your masseuse time to work on releasing the tension there before you have them move on as you may find as they massage the deep tissues the tension and achiness goes away.
• Do plan to avoid prolonged sun exposure as your massage will include oil which may make you more susceptible to sunburn.
• Be sure to relax and listen to the ambient sounds and enjoy the smells of the scented oils.
• The next day you may feel a bit achy is some spots. It is not unbearable and a couple ibuprofen will help. Be sure to drink lots of water to help flush the lactic acid released from your muscles.

After my massage I revealed to Victoria that I was a blogger and asked if walking in for service was the best way in the future. Victoria (who is also the owner’s daughter) said if we had a large group or wanted a specific time, we could reach out to her via Facebook to make an appointment ahead of time. Click here to visit their page. You will find Mayan Spa located at Calle 80 No. 103 X 21 bulevar malecón Progreso, Yucatan 97320. You can also call her at 52 999 280 0853.

After getting our stress massaged away we were ready for a margarita and a bite to eat. We wanted to eat Conchita pibil at the market but due to construction it was closed. Instead we headed down the malecón to find a spot across from the water to eat. While the malecón area is under construction as of January 2020 the stores and restaurants were still open. The city is paving the boardwalk and adding palms, lighting, and seating area. Some restaurants offer tables and umbrellas on the beach to enjoy. We didn’t want to eat on the sand after a massage with oil, so we skipped that area.

We walked a couple blocks as it has been our experience the closer you are to where the tourists disembark the more expensive the food and drinks are. This time we popped into Flamingos across from the beach with a great view of the water. We were seated quickly and served botanas (small snacks of fruit or dips that are sometimes served in Mexican bars). The prices were reasonable for tourist pricing with lunch and drinks for us both coming in around $25 US Dollars. For price comparison, if we could have eaten at the mercado where the locals eat that was closed, we would have had a complete lunch for both of us for less than $5.

The view was great. Food was average. The margaritas were served in a small water cup.  While our experience was not bad, we weren’t wowed and would choose to try somewhere else for our next visit.

Grab anything you want to purchase in town. Look for local stores. Items aren’t cheaper at duty free back at the pier. We stopped in at a convenience store to stock up on treats. We love the spicy, sweet taste of Mexican candy! Favorites include Pulparino a tangy, sweet, spicy tamarind candy, and Mexican peanuts such as Barcel that are coated in a crunchy shell with chile limon spices. We filled two giant grocery bags plus grabbed chips and waters for $8. If our cruise includes a stop in Cozumel, we stop at the Mega store, like a Walmart, to stock up on candy and spices. In Progreso we stop into the convenience store on the malecón.

There is also pharmacy on the malecón we’ve used before. Stock up on over the counter and prescription items here. Supplies like antacids, Paracetamol (acetaminophen), and band-aids are cheap. To buy prescription items be sure to bring the exact name of the medicine. Research before your cruise to determine if Mexico sells it under a different name. A quick Google search will tell you the translated name of the medicine. We have purchased medications in Mexico for years and received quality items. Steve’s inhaler in the United States with insurance is $65. In Mexico without insurance its $2.30. Manufactured by the same company.

You can take food and medications on the ship. You can even bring baked goods back to enjoy. Just no seeds or live animals. Alcohol will be checked in and you will be given it just before disembarking. Each ship has a slightly different policy. Some ships deliver it to your room and others you must retrieve it. When you check your alcohol, you will be given a claim check and told how your ship handles it.

Throughout the main area of Progreso you will find street vendors and hawkers with small carts or shops. They will try to get you to buy things as that is how they support their families. We have not had any problem politely saying, “No thank you” and keep walking. If there is something you want to buy, you can barter. Ask the price and offer a bit less. The vendor will counteroffer. With a bit of negotiating you will come to an agreement that pleases you both. Bartering is completely acceptable and not offensive to the vendor. We personally barter a bit but not a lot. Often the prices are so low it doesn’t seem worth the hassle.

If you don’t like the price and keep walking you most likely will find the same item at another booth. Also be wary of buying spices, medicines, or alcohol from street vendors. The heat can affect the quality. Instead purchase at a store or market. Prices will be lower and the quality better.

When your ready, jump on one of the free shuttle buses and return to the pier. Grab a picture with the cowboy statue on the bench as you get off the bus. Before the duty free store (last one before security) there is a small bar off to the left. It serves $2 beer and offers rope swings, a pool, and a DJ. The bottles are half size and much cheaper than onboard the ship. We enjoy having a beer and people watching for a bit here. You will see some very interesting folks walk or stumble by! There is also a great sign to get your picture taken by. Or you can pose with Elvis or Marilyn Monroe.

Every visit to Progreso there has been a group of Mexican men dressed in full Mayan warrior attire just after you clear security on the pier. They are not ship characters or photographers. Plan to take pictures with them in exchange for a donation. It is much cheaper to pose with them then the ship provided characters. These guys make sure to you get several great pictures for a keepsake using your phone. You can print as many as you want at home. We try to take pictures with them when disembarking before we’ve spent the day in the sun.

We enjoyed a wonderful day in Progreso. For less then $100 we both had an hour long full body massage, lunch with alcoholic drinks, restocked our candy stash, and enjoyed a couple beers at the end of the pier. We did tip our drivers, massage ladies, and servers and that is not included in our total.

At no time did we feel unsafe, harassed, or bored. Tourist police were plentiful all down the beach area keeping an eye on things. Any vendor we politely declined was gracious and remained friendly.

At each location there was someone who either spoke a bit of English or were willing to work with us to communicate. Everyone was friendly and seemed happy to interact with us.

We encourage you to give Progreso a try. Go with an open mind. Progreso offers something for everyone.